IMPRESSIONS OF BELGRADE SERBIA

We were still determining what to expect from Belgrade—one of the oldest European cities, the Capital City of Serbia.

We were returning from Japan. We had selected the country as a stopover for two weeks because it was the only country we had yet to visit in ex-Yugoslavia.

We knew little about Serbia except for its reputation as the Balkan “bad guys” (earned during the wars in the ’90s), Novak Djokovic, the tennis player (currently ranked #2), and its historically close ties to Russia.

First Impressions of Belgrade Serbia

We had yet to learn what the country was like, and we weren’t expecting a warm reception from it as Western tourists.

We couldn’t be more wrong. We were surprised by many aspects of Belgrade and Serbians.

Belgrade is rough on the eyes.

When we first drove into Belgrade, our first impression was that it was gritty and had seen worse days.

Sidewalks are broken and cracked, graffiti is everywhere, and many buildings still have scars from the 1999 NATO bombardment.

Every city looks prettier in summer. We arrived in December at gray skies and leafless leaves, which worsened matters.

Both Budapest and Zagreb have many similarities. However, Belgrade is much poorer than Zagreb. You can see this in the infrastructure.

Belgrade has much history, but you will see little of it.

History goes back 7,000 years to the confluence between the Sava and Danube rivers.

This city, one of Europe’s oldest, was once part of the Roman Empire and the Byzantine Empires.

Over the centuries, there have been many uprisings by Serbs from the 1500s to today.

It was ruled by the Hungarians, Franks, and Habsburgs.

From 1918 until its dissolution in 2006, it was Yugoslavia’s capital.

The city’s strategic location between East & West has been involved in 115 wars and burned 44 times.

This is why there are few historical sites left standing in the city.

Belgrade Fortress is the exception. It dates back to Roman times and looks down on the confluence between the two rivers.

This is where you will feel the full impact of Belgrade’s history.

Serbs have a high level of education – and speak excellent English.

We have been to every ex-Yugoslav country, and we love them all. We were also incredibly impressed with the Serbs.

After almost three years of full-time travel, we have not encountered anyone who speaks English in addition to two or three languages.

Some people in the lower classes and older generations don’t know English. However, most people below 40 who have completed the education system can speak fluent English.

It was shocking.

Also, we discovered that more American companies are moving their technical services to Serbia because of their proficiency in English.

Good-Looking People In Serbia

Serbians are attractive to both men and women. Tall – I am 5’10 tall and was considered average in Serbia.

You’ll find fashionable people everywhere you go in the capital of Serbia.

Russia has strong ties.

We knew it before arriving, and it was confirmed as we walked around the city.

There will be many Vladimir Putin calendars, mugs, and t-shirts.

Russian markets will be your best option to buy Matryoshka dolls, Russian scarves and boots, Russian embroidery, and Russian hand-painted jewelry boxes.

The Russians are the majority of the traders.

The common bond between Russians and Serbs can be attributed to religion (both practice Eastern Orthodoxy), history alliances (often against the West), political views and language (similar enough), and life philosophy.

Deep Resentment Is Felt Towards NATO, the US, and The Clintons

The West treated Serbians with great anger during the Bosnian War (1992-1995) and the Kosovo War (1998-1999).

Bill Clinton, the president of the United States at the time, sided with Serbia in both cases and ordered the bombing of Belgrade in 1999 (at Hillary’s insistence).

Over 2,500 Serb civilians were murdered, and the Serbian economy was decimated. This is something that the country is still trying to recover from.

The most annoying thing about the Serbians was being blamed for the Kosovo War as aggressors. This war was precipitated by the Kosovo Liberation Army, which had just one year ago been declared a terrorist organization by the UN.

NATO bombed Belgrade, and Serbia surrendered.

Since then, Kosovo has declared itself independent, and all UN member countries have acknowledged it.

Serbians still consider Kosovo a province under Serbia, so it’s best to refrain from discussing this topic.

This is why Serbians don’t want to be NATO members and prefer closer ties with Russia.

Surprise! Serbians are Very Warm and Open-Minded

Despite all this, the Serbians we met were extremely friendly.

They were eager to speak and wanted to leave a positive impression of Serbia.

An elderly gentleman in an elevator attempted to speak German to us the day we arrived.

He realized that we didn’t know the language and switched to French. The conversation lasted ten minutes in French.

Our Airbnb host invited us into her suburban home, where we were served coffee and biscuits as she talked about Serb history, traditions, and modern-day life.

Another day, while we were boarding a bus, the driver decided to make friends with us and asked that we stand beside him.

Although he didn’t speak English, he spoke English for 20 minutes to us. He listed his favorite basketball and football teams and told us (when we discovered we were Canadians) that Milos Raonic, our best tennis player, was born in Montenegro.

We would have many similar encounters throughout our two-week stay with the locals. We were charmed by the Serbians.

Belgrade: The World’s #1 Party City

We had no idea. Lonely Planet has named Belgrade the number one party destination in the world.

Locals decided to party until the end of 1999’s bombings. Belgrade’s clubbing scene has become the most popular in the world (Ibiza is second).

Summer is the best time/place for partying.

Because we were there in December, we didn’t see any of it. This is how a typical floating club looks in the summer.

Belgrade is a very affordable place to live.

Belgrade is a great place to indulge and doesn’t cost much.

We visited Dva Jelena (the Two Deer Restaurant), one of the most well-known restaurants in the city. We highly recommend it. We had two starters, two main dishes, and two bottles of wine, coffee, and dessert. (We went wild that night and left with half a bottle of wine and doggie bags).

Total bill? Approx. $40 US.

Expatistan.com has ranked Belgrade among the 73 cheapest European cities (10th) (Prague (16 th)).

* Note: Skopje (Macedonia), another city we visited in 2016, was ranked 3 rd most expensive. Kyiv is currently the most affordable European city.

Everybody Smokes in Belgrade (Everywhere).

Jan 2016 saw the end of indoor smoking. This doesn’t matter, and these are the Balkans.

Everybody smokes, and no one cares about the rules. Have you ever had smoke blowing in your face, making it smell like an ashtray? You are now in the Balkans. For more information on former Yugoslavia travel, please visit our Croatia Travel Guide. Beautiful Croatia: The 20 Best Things to Do

Belgrade is a very walkable city.

Belgrade’s Old Town is compact and quickly walked. The main pedestrian street, Knez Mihailova (or Knez Mihailova), runs from Republic Square at one end of the old town to Kalemegdan Park at the other.

We mentioned Belgrade looked rough at first glance. However, seeing this area of Belgrade with its magnificent buildings, squares, and green spaces provided an entirely different perspective that helped us to get to know the city.

Belgrade has a lot of street art.

Belgradians beautify their city with street art.

You can find murals all over the city, and Belgrade may have more than any other place we’ve seen.

Belgrade has Some Amazing Orthodox Churches.

Saint Sava in Belgrade is the largest church building in the world. It is worth visiting St. Mark’s Church.

If you are looking for traditional Orthodox churches in their original style, visit Ruzica Church or the Church of St. Petka. They are both located outside Belgrade Fortress’ northern entrance.

They are stunning with their colorful and elaborate interiors. These two churches were our top-rated sightseeing experience in Belgrade.

Belgrade is a City of the Future

I have already mentioned American companies moving their technical services to Belgrade. Other companies are also investing heavily.

Eagle Hills, an Abu Dhabi-based company, invests in Belgrade’s waterfront.

During our visit, a large, exclusive apartment tower was in the process of completion. In the coming years, ultra-modern skyscrapers, luxury hotels, and Europe’s largest mall will be built.

China has increased its investment in Serbian steel, energy, and infrastructure projects.

Investors see a highly educated and undervalued workforce who can speak excellent English. Over the next few decades, expect the cityscape will change dramatically.